Is regenerated cashmere as beautiful as the real thing? When we tell people that many of our sweaters are made from regenerated cashmere, this is the question we get asked most often. It's a legitimate question and deserves an honest answer, not a slogan. We'll try to give you one: what doesn't change, what may change, and why we think it's the right choice.
Regenerated cashmere doesn't mean "fake"
Regenerated cashmere is real cashmere. It's the same fiber obtained from goats, but instead of coming from a freshly shorn animal, it comes from recovered cashmere garments and scraps, sorted by color, unraveled, and spun again. The yarn we use is Re.Verso, acquired by Filpucci in Campi Bisenzio, Tuscany, and certified to the GRS (Global Recycled Standard). We explained how the recovery process works, step by step, in Circular Fashion 2.0: How Cashmere Recovery with Reverso Really Works; here, we're interested in something else: how it feels to you when you wear it.
What doesn't change
Warmth, lightness, and softness. Cashmere is a fine, hollow fiber that traps air and insulates against the cold without weighing you down. That's true whether it comes from a freshly shorn fleece or has been recycled. With the same processing and fiber fineness, the feel is very similar to a good-quality virgin yarn, and often you won't notice the difference when wearing the garment.
The way it's made doesn't change either. Our regenerated cashmere garments are made by Italian artisans, with the same gauges, the same finishing, and the same quality control as the other pieces in the collection.
Regenerated cashmere: what may change (we'll tell you)
Here, it's best to be transparent. During the recovery process, the fibers are unraveled, which can shorten them. Shorter fibers tend, in theory, to pill more easily—the little balls of fiber that appear on elbows and hips. This isn't a manufacturing defect: it happens to varying degrees with all cashmere, even virgin cashmere, and is more noticeable in areas that rub against things.
The good news is that it takes very little to manage. A few tips that apply to all cashmere garments:
- hand wash or machine wash on a cold, delicate cycle, using a detergent for wool and cashmere;
- leave the garment to dry flat, without wringing or hanging it up;
- rotate your garments: cashmere likes to rest between wears;
- if pilling appears, gently remove it with an anti-pilling comb, without pulling.
You can find the comb and garment care kit in our Cashmere Care Accessories collection. And if a garment needs a little extra help, there’s always the Lanaioli repair service.
Why we choose it: the impact
Producing virgin cashmere has a high environmental cost. According to Carbonfact data, one kilogram of virgin cashmere has a footprint of around 684 kg of CO2 equivalent, compared with around 22 kg for one kilogram of regenerated cashmere: a 97% reduction. This comparison is an indication of scale, not an exact measurement for an individual garment, because it depends on the assumptions of the model used. Stella McCartney, which has used Re.Verso for years, also describes its impact as “seven times lower” than virgin cashmere, although it doesn’t specify the methodology. The figures don’t match, but they point in the same direction.
Then there’s the issue of land. According to the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), growing demand for cashmere has contributed to overgrazing and grassland degradation in Mongolia. There are sustainable cashmere initiatives working to reverse this trend, and it’s right to recognize that: the answer isn’t “all virgin cashmere is a problem.” But recovering existing cashmere means not putting additional pressure on pastures for every extra sweater.
Regenerated or virgin cashmere: how to choose
If you’re looking for the longest, smoothest fiber possible and are willing to spend more, pure virgin cashmere remains an excellent choice, and you’ll find it in our men’s collection. If, instead, you want a soft, warm garment at a more accessible price with a lower impact, regenerated cashmere is a choice that reflects what we do and the idea of buying less but better.
For men, the most popular items are the regenerated cashmere fully fashioned crewneck sweater, the 12-gauge turtleneck sweater, and accessories: hats, scarves, and gloves. You can find the entire range in the Regenerated Cashmere collection and on the page dedicated to regenerated cashmere. If you want the figures behind our choice of yarns, we’ve gathered them in Less new yarn, more regenerated yarn.
