What is the difference between Spun wool and Carded wool?
Spinning is a process that takes place immediately after shearing the sheep. Spinning begins with the selection and washing of the fibers. Then the fibers are opened and all impurities and dust are removed.
At this point, the wool fiber can be combed or carded. As well explained in the Artigiano in fiera article, the choice to comb or card the wool is based on the length of the fibers.
Combed Wool
To produce combed wool, the finest fleece of the sheep is used, that is the one from the back and sides, where the fibers are longer.
Immediately after shearing, the longer fibers are aligned parallel and twisted around themselves to separate them from the shorter fibers. Then the fibers are combed and aligned in parallel to obtain a combed sliver. The sliver is then twisted to make it homogeneous and strong. Finally, the bobbins are created.
The result of combing is a natural yarn that is smooth, homogeneous, thin, and regular, with which it is possible to make fine, delicate knitwear. A knit of combed wool can be worn under a jacket or over a shirt without weighing down the figure. Another use of combed wool is in underwear knitwear.
Carded Wool
For carding, short fibers derived from shearing the legs and belly of the sheep are used.
These fibers, after shearing, are rich in plant material (seeds and grass) that inevitably stick to the sheep's fleece during grazing. All this material must be removed by carbonization before starting the carding process.
The fibers are then crossed in every direction, transformed into a carded sliver, and then spun. Next comes the twisting phase, which makes the yarn continuous and homogeneous, and finally, the creation of the bobbins.
The result of carding is a natural yarn that is coarser and bulkier because the fibers are not parallel. A sweater made with carded fabric will therefore have a more rustic appearance and will look heavier.
In conclusion, the main difference between carded yarn and combed yarn is the quality and uniformity of the fibers. Combed yarn is often considered superior quality and is used to produce finer and more precious fabrics, while carded fabric can be used for more robust and less refined fabrics.
We at Lanaioli have decided to use combed yarn for our knits because we believe that a thinner knit is more versatile and suitable both for formal occasions and for casual or sporty outfits.
