What is the difference between spun wool and carded wool?
Spinning is a process that takes place immediately after shearing the sheep. Spinning begins with the selection and washing of the fibres. Subsequently the fibers are opened and all impurities and dust are eliminated.
At this point the wool fiber can be combed or carded. As well explained in the Artigiano article at the fair, the choice of combing or carding the wool is based on the length of the fibres.
Worsted Wool
To produce combed wool the finest fleece of the sheep is used, namely that of the back and sides, where the fibers are longest.
Immediately after shearing, the longer fibers are placed in parallel and wrapped around themselves in order to separate them from the shorter fibers. Subsequently the fibers are combed and placed in parallel to obtain a combed ribbon. The tape is then subjected to twisting to make it homogeneous and resistant. Finally the fortresses are created.
The result of combing is a smooth, homogeneous, thin, regular natural yarn with which it is possible to create fine, delicate knitwear items. A combed wool sweater can be worn under a jacket or over a shirt without weighing down the figure. Another use of combed wool is underwear knitwear.
Carded wool
For carding, the short fibers that derive from the shearing of the sheep's legs and belly are used.
These fibres, after shearing, are rich in plant material (seeds and grass) which inevitably stick to the sheep's fleece during grazing. All this matter must be removed by carbonization before starting the carding process.
The fibres, then, are crossed in every direction, transformed into card strip and then spun. Subsequently, the twisting phase takes place, which makes the yarn continuous and homogeneous and finally, the creation of the cones.
The result of carding is a coarser, more voluminous natural yarn as the fibers are not parallel. A sweater made with carded fabric will therefore have a more rustic appearance and will appear heavier to the eye.
In conclusion, the main difference between carded yarn and combed yarn is the quality and uniformity of the fibers. Combed yarn is often considered to be of higher quality and is used to produce finer, more luxurious fabrics, while carded yarn can be used for sturdier, less refined fabrics.
At Lanaioli we decided to use combed yarn for our sweaters because we think that a thinner knit is more versatile and suitable for both formal occasions and casual or sporty outfits.
